"Życie to krótki sen, którego sentymentalnie ja się nie wstydzę..." //z piosenki Stanisława Sojki//
Făgăraş mountains are the highest mountains in Romania. The highest top is Moldowianu - 2544 meters. Făgăraş on one hand are the high, rocky mountains but on the other seems to be not too difficult for hiking ( at least easier than polish Tatra mountains ). The most difficulties are caused by small amount of mountain hostels and very extensive area. So if You want to climb Negoiu or Moldowianu - You have to hike with full equipment (rucksack and tent) - to stay for night somewhere in mountains. For example, route from the Balea Lac to Moldowianu takes 12 hours (one way) - so return in the same day is impossible. The next thing which can be a problem to some tourists (this is a problem for me too) there is the lack of artificial protections like: chains, buckles (however, I have heard, that we will meet some close to Negoiu, but they are in very bad technical condition ).
Suggested routes:
1.On top Buteanu through Saua Caprei (Caprei Pass)
duration : approx. 6 hours ( to and fro );
difficulty: medium
The start of our route is near the hotel called Cabana Balea Lac.I don't write route marks, because lots of them intersects each other. You just have to hike up to the Saua Caprei (Caprei Pass-marked in attached photo) - about 1,15 hour. From the pass to the top of Buteanu You have to hike blue cross marked route ( approx. 2 hours ). Return the same route, or from lake Lac Capra You can hike ahead blue cross marked route to the asphalt road ( on the road turn right ). The secon variant gives You unique opportunity to go through tunnel leading the inside of mountains (approx. 1,5 km).
2. Balea Lac - Vf. Paltinu - Vf. Iezerului - Saua Capra (Capra Pass)- Balea Lac
duration : approx. 5 hours ( to and fro );
difficulty: medium ( dificult if You hike with full equipment in the direct of Negoiu top )
The route leading from Vf. Paltinu in the direct of Negoiu. However, Negoiu attainment and return on Balea Lac in the same day is impossible.
Moving around in Făgăraş mountains without own car is not easy. From the northern west You can go by train - the railway line: Sibiu (Sybin) - Fagarasz -Braszow, but personally I have gone from the north Romania - Rodnian mountains, by train. By the way Romanian railways (website: http://www.mersultrenurilorcfr.ro , also in English ) are very comfortable (without the comparison to PKP - Polish railways), trains are not late, prices are reasonable and the places of changes are given on Your ticket (as well as time of arrival and departure).
I was adviced to stay on the camping field in Cirta village, but despite good standard of camping, it is too far ( approx. 30-40 km ) from the mountains. From Cirta I went to heart of Făgăraş by hitchhike through Causcescu road - to the lake Balea Lac (something similar to Polish lake in Tatras - Morskie Oko). You can buy some things here, like: map, food ( from numerous street traders ). The curiosity are first boiled, and then the grilled maize ( corn ). There are two hotels - but quite expensive. However, You can set up camp everywhere You want and majority of tourists do so. In the mountains are several shelters, but you should know that tourists willing to stay at night can be more than available place inside.